Blog by Rear View Mirror
TIRANA CHRISTMAS MARKETS AND LIGHT DISPLAYSSkanderbeg Square is turned into a winter village in December for the annual Christmas Market. I was quite surprised the first time I saw a huge Christmas tree in the centre of Tirana, but the locals seem to have welcomed a number of Christmas Markets and traditions in recent years.
In December, the square is lined with Christmas lights and market stalls which surround the central Christmas tree and carousel. You can also find a smaller Christmas Market on Toptani Street, a busy pedestrian street with seasonal food and handmade Albanian gifts for sale.
THE BEST WAY TO WELCOME THE NEW YEAR IN TIRANA
New Year’s Eve is one of the most important holidays and events in Albania. I suggest seeing in the New Year with dinner in Blloku, drinks at the Sky Tower and then the fireworks and party at Skanderbeg Square.
Tirana is one of the most dynamic cities I’ve ever visited. It’s constantly changing and there’s always something new going on. Even if you’ve been before it’s worth going back to see what’s new. I first visited in 2001 and it’s crazy how much it has changed.
WALK EVERYWHERE IN TIRANATirana is a great walking city, for sightseeing of course but more so for people watching and getting an idea of local life. Be prepared to see some strange things in Albania. In Tirana, watch out for unusually colourful buildings, quirky street art, stray dogs, the odd bunker, a piece of the Berlin Wall, modern buildings, crumbling communist-era buildings, low hanging electrical wiring, unfinished roads, and still the occasional pothole!
CLASSIC SIGHTS
Skanderbeg Square is the huge central square in Tirana. You can’t miss it as it’s the location of many of the city’s major events. You’ll know you’re at the right place when you see the monument of Albania’s national hero Skanderbeg on his horse. You can also visit the Et’hem Bey Mosque and climb the Clock Tower on the square.
The surrounding red and yellow Italian built offices are home to the government and lead to Bulevardi Deshmoret e Kombit, the Boulevard of Martyrs. On this boulevard, you’ll find the abandoned Hotel Dajti and the Pyramid of Tirana. I remember the Hotel Dajti very well as on my first trip to Albania this was the only place in Albania where you could withdraw cash with a foreign bank card. The hotel was infamous for being bugged so the government could listen in on visiting diplomats.
NEW BAZAARI attracted the wrong kind of attention when I drove my little Fiat 500 through Tirana’s bustling fruit and veggie market. Every single person stopped and stared. It sounds bizarre but it was actually possible to drive through back then and I was guided to do so by a local resident. But those days are long gone and that muddy market with the huge potholes has been replaced with a fancy new market called the New Bazaar and is now a place for tourists as well as locals.
NEW BAZAARI attracted the wrong kind of attention when I drove my little Fiat 500 through Tirana’s bustling fruit and veggie market. Every single person stopped and stared. It sounds bizarre but it was actually possible to drive through back then and I was guided to do so by a local resident. But those days are long gone and that muddy market with the huge potholes has been replaced with a fancy new market called the New Bazaar and is now a place for tourists as well as locals.
BLLOKU & PEOPLE WATCHINGSee and be seen. I’m pretty sure that’s the Albanian motto. They love their cafes and it’s not unheard of for people to linger all day over one coffee. As you walk around you’ll soon see which are the most popular cafes (I’ve mentioned a few below). You might feel like you’re underdressed compared to the locals, or maybe that’s just me, but feel free to take a seat anywhere and enjoy the people watching.
ALBANIAN STREET FOODAlbanians sure do love their pizza but byrek would have to be a close second when it comes to cheap street food. Byrek is basically a heavy version of spinach and ricotta pie. I always think one slice of byrek per year is more than enough but do give it a try, it’s cheap and filling. Other street foods you might see around the city include the ever popular kokoshka (popcorn), grilled corn on the cob and sweet desserts like baklava.
BUNKART
Not only did former dictator Enver Hoxha oversee the construction of more than 700,000 concrete bunkers across Albania, he also built an underground bunker for himself (of course) to escape nuclear war or foreign invasion. There are two bunkers which are now museums, the larger BunkArt museum is located outside of the city but BunkArt2 is not far from Skanderbeg Square.
CHECKPOINT AND THE SPY MUSEUMLove a bit of Cold War action? Head to Checkpoint, opposite the Rogner Hotel, where you’ll find a piece of the Berlin Wall, a classic Albanian bunker, and part of the infamous Spac Political Prison. To get a feel for the secret surveillance and spying techniques used at the time, visit the House of Leaves museum.NATIONAL HISTORY MUSEUM MOSAIC
On the north side of Skanderbeg Square is one of the most classic of Albanian monuments dominating the facade of the National History Museum. The communist era mosaic mural depicts Albanian history and it’s worth taking a photo as there has been talk in the past of pulling it down. The museum itself has some interesting displays taking you back through history until the end of communist rule. When I was there they had to turn on the lights especially for me, I think they were quite surprised to get a visitor!
SKY TOWER ROTATING BAR AND RESTAURANT
Rotating restaurants are a bit kitsch but Tirana’s Sky Tower is a fun place for a drink and well worth it for the views of Tirana. Try to make it in time for the sunset and before the crowds arrive.
MOUNT DAJTI
Take the cable car to the top of Dajti for views over Tirana and out to Durres and the Adriatic. There’s a restaurant near the summit with average food but fantastic views. As you go up in the cable car, look out for bunkers built into the side of the mountain. This area was the location of many executions of political prisoners during communism. If you’re lucky there will be snow at the top of Dajti but I have never seen snow on any of my trips to Albania. If you have the right shoes and the weather isn’t too bad, you can hike further up the mountain. There are paths but it might be best to go with a guide.Andrea • Rear View Mirror. See full article here:
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